The Napa Valley Wine Exchange: Atlas Peak – its history, topography and wines
Read the full article here.
By: Allen Balik
I first became acquainted with the Napa Valley’s Atlas Peak region in the mid-1990s when my wife Barbara and I arranged a four-day weekend wine-centric visit to Napa Valley with some close friends in Southern California. On the second day of our adventure, our group of 12 ventured to the very top of the long, winding Soda Canyon Road to what was then known as Atlas Peak Vineyards and owned by the Antinori family from Italy’s historic Tuscany region.
On arrival we were greeted by the young, handsome estate director Glenn Salva, who hosted us on an extensive tasting of the estate’s wines and a tour of the property and caves, followed by an al fresco lunch under the pergola overlooking the vineyards and valley below.
The Antinori family, under the direction of Marchese Piero Antinori, was in its 25th generation of winemaking in Italy dating back to the mid-14th century. The Marchese chose to establish Atlas Peak Vineyards as an exploration of the nature and resources of the Napa Valley. After years of study, personal visits and consultation with such Napa Valley luminaries as Robert Mondavi, he settled on this relatively unknown and isolated area in 1985.
As Salva explains, “The core of the Antinori philosophy is to maximize the undiscovered potential of specific wine regions, soils and microclimates while staying true to the tradition, culture and taste that give Antinori wines their individuality. This site was chosen for its mountainous terrain, rocky and well-drained soils, high elevations and beautiful landscape, all forming an ideal location for wine growing.”
Leading what is now known as Antinori Napa Valley, Salva remains estate director and general manager, celebrating his 40th year with the Antinori family since joining them in 1986 after purchasing the property a year before. Originally, as vineyard manager, Salva was tasked with all aspects of converting this raw and mountainous parcel into planted vineyards and establishing the winery for estate wine production.
Last month I attended a masterclass of the Atlas Peak American Viticultural Area and a comprehensive tasting of its wines at Antinori Napa Valley. The sold-out masterclass, attended by 85 guests, was intended to demonstrate the distinct nature of Atlas Peak to others in the wine-loving community. It was moderated by Salva and featured a panel of winemakers from the AVA with their wines for tasting.
Attending were Katie Vogt, Pahlmeyer (2023 Merlot); David Yorgensen, Reverie II (2023 Special Reserve Atlas Peak Red Blend); Marla Carroll, Antinori Napa Valley (2024 A26 Chardonnay and 2023 Cabernet Franc); and Morgan Maureze, Seven Apart (2023 Basalt Cabernet Sauvignon).
Appearing on a large-screen Zoom link was David Howell, co-author of “The Winemaker’s Dance: Exploring Terroir in the Napa Valley.” Howell is a recognized authority on the origins and geological development of the Napa Valley dating back many millions of years and Atlas Peak over 9 million years. His presentation was accompanied by a wide array of pictorial graphics, photos and detailed charts, giving us an in-depth visual understanding of the history and differentiation of the Atlas Peak AVA stretching well back in time.
In order for a region to qualify as a recognized American Viticultural Area by the federal Tax and Trade Bureau, an application must be filed by a committee of growers, producers and interested parties that enumerates three basic requirements among other case-based qualifiers:
A proposed name as well as evidence showing the name is currently used to describe the region.
A description of the geographic and/or climactic features that distinguish the proposed AVA from the surrounding regions and have an effect on grapes grown, along with evidence to support the claims of those distinctive features.
A written description of the proposed AVA boundaries and the appropriate U.S. Geological Survey topographic maps with those boundaries drawn on it.
In December 1990, the committee supporting the AVA submitted its application including all of the required information. Approval came in January 1992 naming Atlas Peak as the sixth of Napa Valley’s nested AVAs. It is located high in the valley’s eastern Vaca Mountain range at elevations ranging from 760 to 2,663 feet. Its boundaries are two distinct ridgelines of Vaca Mountain and two watershed valleys — Rector Creek to the northwest and Miliken Creek to the southwest.
It is just south of Pritchard Hill, north of Coombsville and east of Stags Leap and Yountville. Also, nearby to the west are Oak Knoll and Oakville. The soil types vary by elevation, with the newer alluvial soils in the elevated valley region of Foss Valley and volcanic terrain on the surrounding hillsides. Throughout the area soils are shallow and drainage is good.
Most vineyard plantings lie above the fog line for added sunshine hours, cooler temperatures and an extreme diurnal shift from daytime highs to nighttime lows. This all accounts for increased acid retention and a slower, more measured phenolic (flavor/textural) development during the growing season and clearly shows in the finished wines.
Chardonnay is primarily planted in the alluvial soils of the Foss Valley region, with Cabernet Sauvignon and its Bordelais cousins in the volcanic soils on the steep mountainsides. Some Zinfandel can still be found from older plantings, but Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot dominate.
Atlas Peak is, at 11,000 acres, one of the largest of Napa Valley’s 17 nested AVAs, but one of its smallest (1,500 acres) when calculated by planted acreage. According to regulations, planting is not allowed on slopes with grades exceeding 30%. With the very steep, rugged and forested topography of the AVA, that eliminates large areas from development.
Antinori Napa Valley is the largest planted estate in Atlas Peak with 600 vineyard acres followed by Stagecoach. A myriad of smaller estates round out the 1,500 planted acres, with many also producing wine while others choose to sell their fruit. Although some of the winery names may be unfamiliar to many wine enthusiasts, they are well worth the search.
During the masterclass, Howell focused on the archeological and geological origins of Atlas Peak with its relation to Napa Valley and its other 16 nested AVAs, while the panel was more terroir-focused and its effect on the wines produced. They examined in great detail the climate, soils, exposures and topography being influenced by two deep canyons carved out by two of the Vaca Mountains ridge lines in the eastern ranges of Napa Valley.
After the seated session, we were then invited to the patio for an additional tasting by 10 more Atlas Peak vintners and winemakers. The wines were accompanied by a beautiful range of plated and tray-passed small bites to enjoy on a beautiful summer day overlooking the vast reaches of the Napa Valley from a 1,600-foot elevation.
In addition to the fact-filled and engaging masterclass, we were treated to an incredibly wide range of wines presented by the panelists during their presentation and more by those pouring at the reception. Tasting through the wines, I found a distinct pattern of varietal expression and terroir influence. Of course, each wine displayed its own personality and appeal, but the Atlas Peak message was conveyed by all – sleek mountain-grown fruit that displayed notes of elegance, subtle power, balance and sense of an engaging structural presence.
And as Howell mentioned in his closing remarks: “With every glass of an Atlas Peak wine there’s 9 million years of history.” So, grab a glass and enjoy your journey through time!
